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The Beijing bartender mulls over the love surrounding Moscow Mules, Mizuwari and Mokihi. By Annabel Yeung. 北京调酒师郑文洁细述自己对莫斯科骡子、水割以及所在酒吧Mokihi的热爱。杨耀东采访整理。
我做调酒师三年了。之前我是做汽车销售的，后来我觉得那不是我想要的生活。我想要种踏实的感觉。我考虑过转行做调酒师或者糕点师，因为是靠一门技术生活，比较有安全感。我简历投了两家酒吧，正巧，两家都是我现在的日本老板Moto的。两家店都让我去面试。我去了，然后选择了Mokihi，没去Twilight。因为Mokihi离我住的地方比较近，还比Twilight大一些，也更偏日式一些。
I’ve been a bartender for three years. I was a car salesperson until I realised that was not what I wanted in life. I wanted to produce something real and tangible that people can hold. Being a bartender or a baker lets me do that, and learning new skills also gives me a bigger sense of security. So I applied to two bars and coincidentally, both are owned by my boss, Moto, from Japan. He called me back, I went for the interviews and settled on Mokihi instead of Twilight; it was nearer to where I lived then, larger in size (compared to the other bar) and has more of a Japanese style.
Mokihi没有服务员，只有调酒学徒，他们一开始都在外场做服务。我做学徒的时间有半年。工资比我做销售的时候可低得多。酒吧包餐，不包住宿。我那时候还在地下室住了一年；地下室其实挺整洁的，夏天不会太热，冬天不会太冷，冬暖夏凉，因为没窗户，所以我睡得很好。那段刚开始做调酒师的日子我每一天都很开心。每一天，我都可以学到新东西。学凿冰、学开吧。一开始，我凿冰块凿得不好，他们都笑我，后来我不服气，使劲练、使劲练，就练好了。
There are no waiters at Mokihi, only bartending apprentices, and they start off as servers. I was an apprentice for six months. My salary was low compared to what I earned in sales. The package included meals, but no accommodation. I slept in a basement for a year; it was actually quite clean, not too hot in the summer, not too cold in the winter, and with no windows, which made for a sound sleep. But those early days were my happiest. I learned something new every day: how to chisel ice cubes, how to prepare the bar counter for daily service. In the beginning, I was very poor at chiselling and people laughed at me, but I practiced and perfected my skills.
Mokihi比较静，不闹。我们偏日式，又不全是日式，带点美式的感觉，所以中国人、外国人都可以接受。我刚开始在这里工作的时候，客人大部分是日本人和西方人，但这几年，慢慢地很多中国客人也常来这里。客人喜欢我们的鸡尾酒，因为一些糖浆和原料都是我们自己做的。比如在制作莫吉多的时候，我们就用的是自己的咖啡调糖和薄荷糖浆。很多外国客人很喜欢我们的Mokihi特色莫斯科骡子不是没有原因的，因为里面有一款很重要的原料——淡姜啤——就是我们自己做的。我们用老姜和柠檬皮在加了糖的柠檬汁和温水中浸渍12小时，然后过滤冷藏，以停止发酵。我们会花很多心思去想怎么让酒更好喝，怎么让每一种原料的味道更好。这是最复杂的方法，也是最简单的方法。
Mokihi has a cosy aura, not too noisy. While we’re slightly Japanese, our bar has a tinge of American style, so we appeal to both Chinese and foreigners. When I first started, our guests were mostly Japanese and westerners, but more locals have started coming here over the years. People like our drinks, maybe because we create the syrups and infusions ourselves. We use both homemade coffee syrup and mint syrup in our Mojito. Guests also fall for our Mokihi Special Moscow Mule. The main component is our homemade ginger beer. We steep ginger and lemon peel in sugar, lemon juice and warm water for 12 hours, then filter and refrigerate it to stop the fermentation. We think a lot about how to perfect drinks, how to make each ingredient more delicate and subtly finer. It’s about making complicated things through simplicity.
我都说不上哪杯鸡尾酒是自己最喜欢的。调酒技术才是我感兴趣的。比如说有一款鸡尾酒叫“水割”，简单点说就是威士忌加冰。但是，很少有人真的会调。正确的方法是把有点碎的手凿冰块放到高球杯里，加一些威士忌，搅拌，再加些冰，再搅拌，最后再加一点点水，最后再搅拌一次。所以，最后这杯酒里的水主要是由冰块化成的，做好之后，杯子外面有一层霜。
I don’t really have a favourite cocktail. It’s the skills and techniques of drink making that fascinate me. For example, there’s this drink called Mizuwari, which simply translates as whisky mixed with water. However, few get it right. The correct way is to put hand-chiselled, slightly crushed ice into a highball glass, add some whisky, stir, add more ice, stir again, add a little bit of water, followed by a final stir. In the end, the water in the drink mainly comes from the ice, and the glass is frosted on the outside.
我刚想到了自己最喜欢的鸡尾酒是什么，是血腥玛丽！我喜欢它，因为如果做得好，真的很好喝。鸡尾酒是这样的，不管看起来有多酷、有多少颜色、用怎样的装饰，如果味道好喝，这些都是加分的，如果难喝，这些就给它减分。我们店里做的血腥玛丽会把伏特加用烤干的圣女果浸渍；传统的做法是build，现在北京不是流行rolling嘛，所以我们也会用rolling调。
It suddenly occurred to me what my favourite cocktail is; it’s the Bloody Mary! I love it because, if made properly, the Bloody Mary can taste really good. Cocktails are like this: no matter how cool they look, what colours they have, how pretty the garnishes are, they only add to the drink if they taste good, and take away marks if they taste terrible. For our Bloody Mary, we infuse the vodka with oven-dried cherry tomatoes. We also roll the drink instead of building it.
其实很多酒吧都可以把酒做得好喝，服务才更重要。我们总会主动招待客人。我们会对他们笑，和他们说话。我们总是努力记住他们的脸和名字、他们是做什么的、他们上一次点了什么、他们的生活近来怎样。所以我们大部分都是熟客和熟客带来的朋友。他们觉得这个酒吧很亲切，他们来的时候会和我们打招呼。有时候，有些客人对我们店的感情很深，让我很感动。有个中年的日本客人，他在日本领事馆工作。他以前每天都来，有时候一个人，有时候和朋友一起，有时候和同事一起。他一个人的时候，总会悄悄挤到吧椅上坐。他中文不是很好，我又不会说日语，所以我们就用手势、眼神和微笑来交流。去年，他要离开中国回日本工作，他坐在吧台，一个人掉眼泪。他握着我们老板的手，说他有多么不舍得离开我们。还有一个在美国领事馆工作的客人，他今年7月中就要离开中国了，所以他现在天天来。客人与我们之间的关系——这种感觉，好像谈恋爱。
While any bar can make a good drink, it’s the service that makes the difference. We take the initiative when our guests arrive. We smile and talk to them first. You need to remember their faces and names, what jobs they do, what they ordered previously, their lives. This is why most of our guests are regulars or friends of our regulars. This place is familiar to them; they say hi to us when they come in. Sometimes it strikes me how deeply guests are attached to us. There was a middle-aged Japanese man who worked for the Japanese embassy. He came to our bar every day – alone, with a friend, or with colleagues. When he was by himself, he would slip onto one of the bar stools. His Chinese wasn’t very good, and I can’t speak Japanese, so we communicated through gestures, eye contact and smiles. Last year, before he left China, he sat by the bar and wept. He held our boss’s hand and expressed how sad he was to leave us. There’s another customer who worked for the American embassy. He left China in the middle of July, but visited us every day before he did. The attachment between the guests and us feels, interestingly, like love.
很多人会说我为什么在Mokihi呆这么多年，特别是2013年赢得君度女王（鸡尾酒大赛）以后。有人参加比赛是为了得到名气和认可，可以提高身价和跳槽的机会，这都无可厚非。但我觉得我在这行还是新人，要学习的东西还很多。我刚来店里的时候这个店刚开两年，客人和员工都没有现在多。到现在开店五年半了，我是慢慢跟着它一起成长的。它给到我很多。我以前是做汽车销售的，那时候也干得不错。但是越到后期越觉得不开心，觉得在浪费时间，每天跟不一样的客人重复一样的台词，只为卖出一辆车。在Mokihi，每天都能学到新的东西，感觉特充实。工作久了之后，发现调酒师学到的不只是单单调酒一方面，在吧台调酒之外的时间还要跟客人聊天服务什么的。与其说我一直在Mokihi给它带来了什么，不如说它给到我的是我入行的时候想都没想过的。我觉得不管在哪家店，都能找到自己的位置，让自己的存在是有意义的。学调酒给我打开的不是一扇窗，不夸张的说，是整个世界啊。
Some people ask me why I’m still working at Mokihi after so long, especially since winning Cointreau Queen (cocktail competition) in 2013. Some bartenders compete to challenge themselves, some want the fame and recognition to push for a higher pay or jump to a larger bar. These are all understandable. But I’m still quite new in this industry, and there’s a lot for me to learn. Mokihi had only been open for two years when I first started, with a smaller group of customers and fewer staff. Now this bar is five-and-a-half years old. I’ve grown up with it. It has given me so much. I used to be a car salesperson, and a good one. But that life was meaningless, repeating the same words to different people just to sell a car. At Mokihi, however, I learn new things every day. I feel fulfilled. It’s not only about mixing drinks, but also about service, communicating with the guests. This bar has nourished me more than what I’ve contributed to it so far. No matter what bar you work for, you have to find your own place in it and make it meaningful. Becoming a bartender has changed my life completely.
Mokihi / 北京市朝阳区好运街12商铺3楼 / 3/F Shangpu, 12 Haoyunjie, Chaoyang district, Beijing
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本文来源于《DRiNK饮迷》第39期。更多详情，请点击下方“阅读原文”访问《DRiNK饮迷》官方网站。
You may find the original article in DRiNK Magazine issue 39. Please click the 'Read More' link below to visit DRiNKmagazine.asia. |
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