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[饮迷之星 Face]:傅兆祥 Dilan Fu

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DRiNK饮迷-V 发表于 2020-10-19 23:40:44 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式 打印 上一主题 下一主题
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立足昆明的调酒高手想让云南味道成为舞台的主角。The Kunming drinksmith wants to put the flavours of Yunnan centre stage.

我做过白案、舞者和营养师。我经常跟朋友开玩笑说:“不会煮饭或者教人合理饮食的调酒师不是一个好的舞者。”我的第一份工作是在广州一家餐馆的厨房里。那时我18岁。我很小就跟我的奶奶学习做饭。她经常带我去市场买菜,教我如何通过观察挑选出最好的大米和蔬菜。我在好几个城市生活过,做过不同的工作。在香港,我为明星编舞和伴舞,同时还担任他们的营养师。但是在那个时候,我也同时在学习和研究,为我的餐饮事业做准备。

I used to be a pastry cook, dancer and nutritionist. My first job was in the kitchen of a restaurant in Guangzhou. I was 18 years old. I learnt to cook at a very early age from my grandmother. She often took me to the market and taught me to pick out the best rice and vegetables by their appearance. Later I lived in several different cities doing a variety of gigs. I danced and choreographed for celebrities in Hong Kong, and I was also the nutritionist for these celebrities. But I was doing research and learning to prepare for my career in f&b.

我的家族在昆明经营着几家餐馆,但开酒吧是我自己一个人的事业。我现在已经有两家酒吧,还有一家在筹备中。它们都在昆明。我的第一家酒吧八年前开业。那个时候,我不知道鸡尾酒吧在昆明能不能做得起来,因为那时连喝红酒的人都很少。当时我在烹饪学校当老师,觉得如果我的酒吧做失败了,会不太好看,所以一开始我尽量让它保持低调。它的门口连招牌都没有。大家也不知道它的名字。最开始我是把它当作一个请我的朋友过来、我给他们做酒喝的地方。不过后来它就不是这样了。

My family operates several restaurants in Kunming but opening bars is my own business. I have two bars and one in the pipeline. They are all in Kunming. My first bar opened eight years ago. I didn’t know if a cocktail bar would ever work in a city where even drinking wine was a rare thing to see at that time. I was teaching at the cooking school and thought it wouldn’t look good if I failed in the bar business. So I kept it on the down low at the beginning. The bar had no sign at the door. People didn’t know its name. It started as a place where I invited friends and made drinks for them. But later it changed.

我在日本学的调酒。我推崇那种精准性和匠人精神,这也是我想在调酒中体现的。在我的第一家酒吧,我做酒的区域比地面高一些。它就像一个舞台一样,大家看着我在上面摇酒、过滤。他们也会看到墙上挂着我做舞者时和明星的合照。大家以为我是个日本人,“曾经是个明星舞者的日本调酒师”。那会在昆明有很多关于我的传言。我喜欢大家的那种疑惑和关注。

I learnt bartending in Japan. Precision and the artisanal is what I love and try to present in bartending. The area in my bar where I make drinks is higher than the ground. It is like a stage so people saw me shaking and straining. They also saw the photos on the wall of me as a dancer with celebrities. People thought I was a Japanese. I was the “Japanese bartender who used to be a star dancer”. There were a lot of rumours about me in the city at that time. I enjoyed that bemusement and attention.

很快我的小酒吧就变得有名起来。我给客人们带来了鸡尾酒文化,也带来了一些谈资。在昆明推广鸡尾酒文化很困难。我是做厨师起家的,所以我不介意起早贪黑。我不能忍受的是那种孤独感。当你做出一款自己感到很骄傲的鸡尾酒,获得的反响却是令人心碎的。有次我给客人做了一款马提尼的改编版。他们喝了一口说:“给我来一打。这个总算有点酒味,其他的简直就是白开水。”

Soon my small bar became popular. I brought them cocktail culture and also something to gossip about. Promoting cocktail culture in Kunming is tough. I started as a cook. So I don’t mind getting up early and working late. It’s the loneliness that I can’t stand. When you come up with a cocktail you were very proud of, the reaction you get just breaks your heart. One day I made a twisted Martini for my guests. They sipped it and said, “Give me a dozen of these. This one finally has some alcohol in it. Not like the others, just plain water.”

我的首家酒吧开业两年以后,开始有人排队喝我的酒。让人们等很久才喝到一杯酒,这样做并不酷,也不是好的服务。所以我决心开一家更大的酒吧。我的第二家酒吧在今年二月开张。这次它有名字也有招牌。它叫Dream,是个三层楼的建筑,供应啤酒、咖啡、威士忌和原创鸡尾酒。我希望更多人尝到好的鸡尾酒,同时培养更多调酒人才。我的第一家小酒吧就像过去的我。它寄托了很多情感。在那里,我是一名工匠和艺术家。但是在我的新酒吧,我必须放弃一些东西。现在我在新酒吧调酒时,会有客人叫我去跟他们喝一杯。如果是在老酒吧,我会拒绝,但是我现在不会也不能拒绝他们。人必须坦然接受并进入生活的新阶段。

Two years after I opened my first bar, people were lining up to get a drink. It’s not cool to let people wait for a long time to get drinks. It’s not good service. So I decided to open a bigger bar. My second bar opened in February this year. This time, it has a name and a sign. It’s called Dream, a three-floor building offering beer, coffee, whisky and original cocktails. I want to bring good cocktails to more people and nurture more bartending talent. My small first bar is like the old me. It carries a lot of sentimental value. I am a craftsman and artist there. But in my new bar, I have to give up something. Now when I’m making a drink behind the bar at my new place, some guests will ask me to join them for a drink. If I was at my old bar, I would say no but now I won’t and can’t do that. People have to embrace the new phases in their life.

但是我知道在我心中,有些东西并没有改变——我永远不会把成为一个纯商人当作目标。匠人精神和推广鸡尾酒文化的梦想在我心中永远不会消亡。我的第一家酒吧现在还保持着老样子。每周四我都会去那里做酒,享受一下属于自己的时光。我也在努力用本地原料创作手工鸡尾酒。云南有超过20个少数民族,每个民族都有着丰富独特的本地原料,对我来说是一大堆值得挖掘的宝藏。我已经开始挖掘了。新酒吧酒单上有80%是用昆明本地应季原料调制的原创鸡尾酒。除了每周四的“老酒吧之夜”,我一周中最好的时光就是在菜市场闲逛,找寻最优质最新鲜的材料,虽然现在只有我一个人。

But I know there’s something in me that won’t change – I will never aim to just be a businessman. Craftsmanship and the dream of promoting cocktail culture will never die in my heart. I’m keeping my first bar as it is. I spend every Thursday there making drinks and enjoying my own time. Meanwhile I’m also working on original craft cocktails using local ingredients. Yunnan has more than 20 ethnic minorities. Each of them has an abundance of unique local ingredients so there’s a lot of treasure to dig for. I have already started. In my new bar, 80 per cent of the cocktails on the menu are original ones with seasonal ingredients local to Kunming. Besides every Thursday night I spend at my small bar, the best time of every week is when I wander around the local market to find the best and freshest ingredients, even though now I’m on my own.

Dream Lounge Whisky Center | 昆明市五华区南强街巷中段21号 | 21 Middle Nanqiang Street, Wuhua district, Kunming | +86 138 8879 9799

本文刊登在第46期《饮迷》杂志。This article was first published in Issue 46 of DRiNK Magazine.

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